As the sun dips below the horizon and casts a rosy glow on the Ganga, the riverside temples -- of all sizes and vintage -- light up giant diyas.

The robust and rousing tunes of Jai Jai Jagdish Hari Re begin to emanate and reverberate from underneath the numerous bridges that span the holy river. Thousands line the river singing along joyfully.

And then one by one diyas, nestled in wee boats of leaves and flowers, set free by devotees onto the river, come floating downstream in a pageant of lights... 'How far that little diya throws his beams! So shines a good deed in a naughty world...'

If you drive a little upstream from Haridwar and beyond Rishikesh -- about an hour -- you can stop by at a bright white sandbank on the Ganga and dip your toes into the river, shortly after it has tumbled out of the mountains. The waters are a pale bluey-green and crystal clear. And unforgettable.

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