Locals say the spirit of Tibet still lives, despite the dominance of the Han Chinese. They fear, however, that a generation or two down the hill, this feeling will die a natural death and Tibet will become as Chinese as the mainland.
Its spirit is not the only thing that is changing -- Lhasa, the enchanting, once laid-back centre of Buddhist spirituality, is gradually transforming into a showcase of modern -- read Western -- progress. This is evident in the malls, in the nature of the shops and the goods they sell, and even in the Chinese version of the Chevrolet that took us by surprise -- a car completely reconstructed, on the lines of the classic Chevrolet, but tailored to the local market and boasting a Chinese brand name.
The Internet cafe owner, who for obvious reasons did not want his name used, sees in these signs of 'progress' a calibrated attempt by the Chinese government to submerge Tibet's unique personality. "They are killing us socially and culturally, turning us like Indians in American reservations," he lamented. "The youth are not getting proper education, and most of them roam around aimlessly. They have to go to mainland China for higher education, and their credentials are always suspect. Tibetans in the higher echelons of Chinese administration and foreign service are unheard of. Our magazines and newspapers are stuffed with entertainment, and government-approved 'news'.
Image: A view of Lhasa from inside the Potala Palace
Also see: Activists slam action against Tibet protestors
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