From Darjeeling's popular Victorian-style Mall promenade -- where holiday makers, armed with cameras and newly-purchased trinkets, mingle with local Nepali families and Tibetan matrons, out for evening constitutionals -- a very steep road descends to the locality of Lower Toong Soong.

It wanders past horse stables reeking of manure.

And beyond shabby, steamy stalls vending quick Chinese cuisine, popular with shoe-string budget backpackers.

And past barber shops where locals get a quick chop behind ridiculously frilly lace curtains as it slopes downwards.

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