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This was just the beginning of chaos

Day 2

We wanted reach Pahalgam as soon as we could before the situation got worse, but this was just the beginning of chaos. Trekking to Amarnath is an adventure, but reaching the base of Amarnath is another adventure.

We had crossed Patni Top, where the real beauty of the mountains begins, as does trouble. Hundreds of cars and buses were being stopped, the reason being 'riots'. A few constables told us the Yatra is suspended because of violence in Udhampur, Pahalgam, Baltal. They said we could go ahead if we liked but the administration would not take responsibility. Thankfully, there was a langar. We waited there for almost seven hours. People had started getting restless so a convoy along with five military trucks started to move towards Pahalgam. We could only see soldiers, and more soldiers.

We were to reach Anantnag after about 5 miles and then Pahalgam. We would start walking towards Amarnath the next morning. The thought gave us energy. Just then a group of policemen stopped our car and asked us to turn back and go to the military camp about a mile behind and stay there for the night. Heaps of broken glass were being swept away from the road. Looked like some cars were attacked and their windshields broken.

We had to spend the night at the Anantnag military camp, with almost 5,000 people, delicious langar food, and rented, moist, smelly, army mattresses.

Photograph: Swapnil Bhumkar
Also see: My Sabarimala pilgrimage

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