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Top spots for New Year's EveTungnath: Trek to the land of snow, ice and the gods
It's that time of the year again, when some of us long to get away from the madness of it all and introspect as the clock turns another year.
If you are the kind seeking a little thrill and a lot of peace and quiet to ring in the New Year, look no further than Tungnath, the highest of the five kedars, the holy Shiva temples in Uttarakhand.
The best thing about Tungnath and Chandrashila -- the mountain on which the Tungnath temple sits -- is that it is doable at any time of the year, even in December, if you are willing to brace the elements and rough it out.
Yes, you will find snow -- a lot of it -- but let us assure you that the biting cold will be the least on your mind; you will see sights fit for the gods.
You will see the majestic Kedar, Chaukhamba, Neelkanth and a host of other awe-inspiring peaks glisten in the crisp winter sun, the ice on them taking on different colours as the day progresses.
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And if you can push yourself and get to Chandrashila at 4,000 metres above sea level, you will see some of the highest peaks in the world surrounding you in a circle -- as far as Nanda Devi on one side and Yamunotri on the other.
The one thing to remember is to be prepared. Inners are a must, as are snow jackets, and all the warm clothing you can gather. Get yourself snow-proof shoes too. Carry sleeping bags and carry mats (available at any trekking shop) and be prepared for extreme cold.
A note to those who are baulking at the idea: Chopta, at about 3,000 metres above sea level on the road head to Tunganath, is one of the most beautiful little Himalayan hamlets you will ever see. And even if you just park yourself there, you will have an unforgettable new year.
To get to Chopta --a little village amidst lush green bugyals (high altitude Himalayan meadows) and ice-capped peaks -- you can take a car from either Rishikesh or Dehradun, the nearest airport. Chopta is 226 km from Jolly Grant, the Dehradun airport. Be prepared to hunt a little for the right car, as not many drivers know Chopta.
In fact, how cut off it is from what we call civilisation is apparent from the name of the road it is on: Bhukh Hartal. Apparently, the villagers undertook a fast to ensure a road was made here.
From Chopta, Tungnath is just about a 4-km walk up, and Chandrashila another 1 km.
It is quite doable for us unfit city slickers too -- there is a paved road going up till Tungnath, though at this time it will be under several feet of snow for sure -- and it is the perfect beginner's trek.
Accommodation is a bit of a problem in Tungnath, though, and don't expect any frills. You will get a bed, blankets, and if you're lucky, a loo. Carry some fancy food too for the New Year 'bash,' because life in this land of the gods is as basic as it gets.
There are tea shops on the way up to Tungnath where you can sip on a hot cup while you mentally pinch yourself to remind yourself that you are not dreaming -- that the unbelievable vista as far as the eye can see is real.
Fast facts
Nearest railhead is Haridwar.
Nearest airport is Jolly Grant, Dehradun.
Where to stay
Tea shop-cum-guest houses at Chopta, tea shops at Tungnath. You can carry your own tents too. Chopta is ideal camping country.
For more information, maps, etc, check the Garwal Mandal Vikas Nigam web site's Chandrashila Winter Summit link.
Text: Sumit Bhattacharya
Photographs: Jit Ray
Also read: Stairway to heaven
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